A Taste of Tradition, Rewritten: Samuel Lee’s SENsation, Restaurant in Paris

A view from the exquisite bar that is both comfortable and modernly elegant at Samuel Lee’s SENsation Restaurant in Paris.

There’s something about a meal that lingers. Not just on the palate, but in the mind, the memory, the mood. At SENsation, the newly opened Cantonese-inspired restaurant in Paris’s 11th arrondissement, that lingering feeling starts from the very moment you walk in — and it’s not just the lacquered duck.

Chef Samuel Lee, known for his previous tenure at the Michelin-starred Shang Palace at Shangri-La Paris, brings a grounded elegance and a quietly confident creativity to the table. His concept draws inspiration from "Jiu Xi," the convivial banquets of ancient China, and reimagines them for the modern Parisian table — layered, ceremonial, and wildly delicious.

From the moment we arrived, the staff was warm, intuitive, and welcoming, striking that elusive balance of professionalism and ease. There’s a rhythm to the service here — a kind of choreography that mirrors the kitchen’s own harmony.

The Dishes That Danced

We began with a sparkling lineup of starters, among them the shrimp and pork Siu Mai, tender little pockets rich with shiitake umami, served steaming and perfect (just be sure to let them cool before you jump in!). The crispy cauliflower and broccoli, tossed with Kung Pao sauce, were cooked to perfection beneath their crunchy exterior, and the oysters, fresh and clean with just the right brine, were simply divine.

One standout early in the meal was a modern twist on the traditional radish and Ibérico ham cake — crisp on the outside, tender and sticky within, this reinterpretation of the classic turnip cake was earthy, savory, and deeply satisfying. The addition of rich Ibérico ham lent a luxe salinity that melted into the warmth and sweetness of the radish. Familiar yet refined, it was the kind of dish that makes you pause mid-conversation — and then immediately plan your return. It was a bold, unexpected bite that landed somewhere between nostalgic and otherworldly.

The yellowtail rosette, beautifully plated and marinated with care, felt slightly overshadowed by the intensity and precision of the other dishes. But the tangy orange dressing on the cabbage salad that followed — a riff on the traditional “gai choy fu yu” sauce (fermented tofu and citrus) — revived our palates with zing and freshness.

Then came the showstoppers. The lacquered pork, glazed in Cognac and caramelized to perfection, was rich without being heavy — the meat glistening, the fat rendered just so. The fried chicken, seasoned with a Cantonese-style fermented bean curd and fried to a golden crunch, was surprisingly very good.

One thing we didn’t try? The SEN style roast duck (pre-order 2 days in advance) — highly recommendated for those who enjoy duck and are dining in a small group.

The Glass That Stole the Show

And if we thought the meal couldn’t be any better, we must speak about the house-made Cognac. This wasn’t just a pour — it was performance. Handcrafted with infusions of apple, pear, and a surprising, sublte and refined sweetness. The Cognac was served with a pepite-style siphon, a traditional tool used to draw the spirit up and serve it in a slow, almost ritualistic pour. Earthy, warm, and subtly floral, it was the kind of drink that anchors a memory.

The wine list deserves equal praise — a thoughtful, exciting mix that jumps from Burgundy to lesser-known vintners across Europe. Every pairing felt intentional and unobtrusive, elevating the dishes without competing.

Parting Thoughts

When I left, I couldn't stop thinking about that Cognac. And the pork — both the starter and the main — which somehow managed to be both comforting and entirely new. Those are the dishes I’ve already told several friends to try immediately. SENsation is more than a meal — it’s a moment, one I suspect I’ll return to again and again.

Check out SENsation: Offering a tasting menu as well as à la carte dishes; open Tuesday - Saturday. 32 rue Saint-Maur, 75011 Paris, France
+33 1 40 31 32 24

Dishes from Samuel Lee’s SENsation Restaurant in Paris.